For many the most captivating of the Aeolians, Stromboli conforms perfectly to one's childhood idea of a volcano, with its symmetrical, smoking silhouette rising dramatically from the sea. It's a hugely popular day-trip destination, but to best appreciate its primordial beauty, languid pace and the romance that lured Roberto Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman here in 1949, you'll need to give it at least a couple of days.
Volcanic activity has scarred and blackened much of the island, but the northeastern corner is inhabited, and it's here that you'll find the island's famous black beaches and the main settlement sprawled attractively along the volcano's lower slopes. Despite the picture-postcard appearance, life here is tough: food and drinking water have to be ferried in, there are no roads across the island, and until relatively recently there was no electricity in Ginostra, the island's second settlement.
Stromboli Crater
For nature lovers, climbing Stromboli is one of Sicily's not-to-be-missed experiences. Since 2005 access has been strictly regulated: you can walk freely to 400m, but need a guide to continue any higher. Organised treks depart daily (between 3.30pm and 6pm, depending on the season), timed to reach the summit (924m) at sunset and to allow 45 minutes to observe the crater's fireworks.
Spiaggia Lunga
Stromboli has unspoiled beaches of sparkling black sand. The central beaches are wide but shadeless, so head for one most recommended by the Stromboliani themselves. On peaceful Spiaggia Lunga, at the far end of Piscità, you can hunker down between boulders with a lush hillside at your back. If you venture down the paths between the nearby houses, you'll find small bays where you can clamber among dark crags or cool your toes in the crashing surf.
Chiesa di San Vincenzo
A major Stromboli landmark, San Vincenzo is the island's main church. In mid- to late afternoon, the square out front becomes a gathering point for trekkers preparing to climb the volcano.
Ginostra
While most accommodation is at Stromboli village, be sure to visit Ginostra (pop: 30), which is only reachable by boat. Wander up paths between cacti and wild flowers, splash among rocks in Caribbean-blue water and gaze at the other Aeolians on the horizon. Contact l'Incontro restaurant and bed-and-breakfast, tel: (39-90) 981 2305, for overnight stays. Or you can hire a boat in Stromboli to take you to Ginostra for dinner only, passing the Sciara del Fuoco on the return journey to show you the sputtering volcano from the moonlit sea.
Locanda del Barbablù
This dusky-pink Aeolian inn houses the island's classiest drinking spot, with the same owner and staff since 1985. It's a fashionable port of call for the August aperitif set, with a lively bar, rustic-chic decor and an excellent list of Sicilian wines.
Lapillo Gelato
On the main street between the port and the church, this artisanal gelateria is a great place to fuel up with homemade ice cream before making the big climb. The pistachio flavour is pure creamy bliss.
